It is 08:00, to the second. The whistle sounds one last time, and smoothly, we leave the station behind: the brand-new Madaraka Express departs right on time. There’s a reason for this: it’s not the Kenyans, but the Chinese who are behind this enormous investment. Since April 2017, the Lunatic Express has become a thing of the past. China has rolled in to build a new railway along the same route: the Madaraka Express. This one has to be bigger, faster, and better: they must have thought, go hard or go home! The price tag for this? A mere $3.8 billion, with China financing 90% of it, and the remaining 10% being contributed by the Kenyan government. The route between Nairobi and Mombasa is already in place and fully operational. But what on earth does China actually have to do in Africa?
China's African Vegetable Garden
Recently, Chinese President Xi Jinping announced that the country would once again commit $60 billion in investments to the African continent. That's no small amount! What's behind this? Dollar signs and food are central to China's interests in Africa. The extraction of raw materials is a major reason why Chinese state-owned companies are heading to Africa. Their population is growing so rapidly that they can no longer produce enough food on their own – and no one likes hangry citizens! In many parts of Africa, they offer loans that are repaid by African countries with raw materials like oil or copper. China can use these resources to boost its own economy.

China's financial flows to Africa are primarily made up of low-interest loans provided to fund specific projects, particularly direct investments in infrastructure. Like this brand new train in Kenya! The interest on these loans can remain low because raw materials are used as collateral, making the loan less risky for China. However, it's not all sunshine and rainbows… There are many international concerns surrounding these Chinese contracts. What is this all about?
Important warnings or Anti-China propaganda?
Get ready for a lesson on political interests and intrigue! China is often accused in Western media of modern imperialism and human and environmental rights violations. Say what?! The country is said to be plundering the continent and trading with corrupt regimes, with contracts that are far from transparent. Another concern for Western critics? The potentially dramatic consequences if the loans cannot be repaid by the country in question... the debt levels of many African countries are already alarmingly high. The image of China as the modern coloniser who is only reaping the benefits of the (passive) land is often simple and one-sided. One thing is certain: the focus of the West and China is aimed at completely different areas. While Western aid often focuses on education, democratization, or healthcare, Chinese loans tend to focus more on infrastructure and industry.
A mere $3.8 billion, of which China finances 90%; the remaining 10% is contributed by the Kenyan government.
The way Chinese investments are portrayed in the media has turned into a sort of propaganda war: pointing fingers and back-and-forth arguments. Western critics highlight the significant risks, while China talks about win-win situations. Ultimately, the essence is business... but how far can and should this go? If you want to know more about the nuances of the Chinese-African relationship, be sure to
read this insightful article from De Correspondent.
Kedeng kedeng, ka-ching ka-ching
In May 2014, Chinese Premier Li Keqiang, along with the presidents of Kenya, Uganda, Rwanda, and South Sudan, signed a major project aimed at improving the infrastructure between these countries. It involves a
railway between Nairobi and Mombasa, replacing the old
Uganda Railway. But, uh... wouldn't it be easier to just fix the old railway? "No!" says China. Firstly, this new line will be long and straight, saving travelers a lot of time. Moreover, transporting raw materials to and from Uganda is of great importance to China. In the long term, they even plan to extend the line to other resource-rich areas like South Sudan and East Congo.
Not only are Chinese investments under scrutiny in the media (recently, the Kenyan government raised fuel prices partly to pay off debts); there is also considerable controversy regarding Tsavo National Park and Nairobi National Park. The train crosses these areas. Activists claim that the railway will disrupt local ecosystems, with the construction already having driven away much of the wildlife. Wildlife versus commercial gain; a battle that unfortunately occurs all too often.
One thing is certain: thanks to China's tight planning, the train departs precisely on time. Whether this will continue remains to be seen. The plan is for China to hand over the railway to Kenya in the near future. Kenyans are currently being trained by the Chinese on maintenance and railway management: the road (rails) to success or a classic case of 'doomed to fail'? We’ll have to wait and see!
Either way, this train journey is super cool!
The railway is now (partially) operational and works like a charm. It’s a more sustainable and eco-friendly alternative to a polluting domestic flight, and also a great way to avoid the traffic jungle between Mombasa and Nairobi. Plus, you get to make beautiful stops along the way. How about the lush
Taita Hills or the adventurous
Lumo Conservancy? Crazy or not, Chinese or not, this route certainly guarantees a seriously unique Kenyan adventure.
This blog is part of Africa Inside Out.