On an adventure in Tanzania with Charlie's Travels
As seasoned world travelers, an organization may come up with a very good story to win us over. 'Of course' we first looked for a way to backpack, but with a time limit and too few public transport options, that didn't seem like a good idea anyway. Charlie's Travels quickly aroused our attention: a call was easily scheduled and a proposal quickly made. Eventually we were able to get an extra week of vacation and Charlie's quickly adjusted our itinerary, now the trip became even fatter! It was time for an adventure through Tanzania: how we were looking forward to it!
"We explored our preferences and soon discovered that this organization fit us perfectly, with even Dutch people on the ground in the heart of Africa. You don't get shorter lines!"
The start of our journey: an immersion in Tanzania's wildlife
Our trip began with a much-needed dose of sleep to recover from the long flight, followed by a morning drive to Enduimet Conservancy. There we were warmly welcomed by our guides and drivers. With backpacks securely strapped on and helmets on our heads, we were ready to explore the wilderness. For two days we traversed the dry landscape of Enduimet, camped under the stars and listened at night to the sounds of nature around us. Along the way, we frequently encountered Masai tribes accompanied by their cattle. We saw numerous giraffes, zebras, ostriches, baboons, an elephant herd and even a black panther! What struck us most was that our drivers always kept a respectful distance from the animals. The animals were clearly not used to motor vehicles, which made the encounters all the more special. The highlight of the day was often watching breathtaking sunsets from the hills as we saw herds of wild animals grazing in the distance.
Culture and nature: visit to Tembo Guesthouse and Mount Longido
After a fat motorcycle safari, we were dropped off at the Tembo Guesthouse, a modest residence in simple Longido. Despite the sporadic power supply, it felt special to be part of the TEMBO project, which strives for equal educational and economic opportunities for girls and women in Longido. They involved us in the lesson by engaging us in short conversations in easy, slow English so the girls could follow along. During breaks, we played volleyball with their own rules and a battered ball, while the village women cooked for us.
"The trek started out fun, with friendly Masai women fetching water from the well and their children enthusiastically waving to us."
After a fine night, we had breakfast and participated in "yoga" where basic English was applied: counting, up-down, left-right, front-back, things like that. Then we packed a small backpack with overnight gear for the camping hike to Mount Longido.
The trek started out fun, with friendly Masai women fetching water from the well and their children enthusiastically waving to us. Soon the steep uphill climb began. It was funny at first, as we saw baboons and a kudu, but soon the laughter faded. 'Pole pole' the guide said continuously, meaning 'slowly' in Swahili. It was incredibly tough even for us - with excellent fitness - probably because of the altimeters.
Reaching the summit of Mount Longido
After a long climb, we finally reached the camping spot, where we rested and prepared for the hike to the summit. Fortunately, this last stretch was not too bad, and from the top we enjoyed breathtaking views of the savannahs of Tanzania and Kenya. After a night in the tent and breakfast, we returned downstairs, where we shared our experience with the girls at school. Our tip: connect and be proactive, because there is little to do but much to experience if you are open to it.
Charming Arusha and the road to it
Our next stop was Arusha. Along the way we passed numerous small stalls and local businesses, ranging from shoe shiners and barbers to butchers, furniture makers and, of course, goats - a totally different atmosphere than what we are used to in the Netherlands. We didn't do much in Arusha because it rained all day. Frankly, we liked it too, a day of rest to let all the impressions of the past few days sink in.
"A totally different atmosphere than what we are used to in the Netherlands."
The next day, on the recommendation of Eva from Charlie's, we visited the local market, and local it certainly was! It was a fantastic experience - we were the only white people apart from the mannequins, which was really funny considering the predominantly dark population of the country. The market was lively and authentic, very different from the more touristy Masai market according to Eva.
Mistake ... thank you?
Speaking of Charlie's, after an accommodation error we had to check out after only one night. Fortunately, they took immediate action and within half an hour had arranged everything for new accommodation in Arusha for the next night. Their service was incredibly fast. Do take your time, enjoy a cup of coffee or a beer while they take care of everything for you. With Charlie's by your side, you don't have to worry even if sleeping under the stars is not an option. ;-)
Sleeping under the stars: the Masai boma
At our next location, Stefano's Masai boma, sleeping under the stars was a normal occurrence for the local boys, who rested outside near the goats and cows. Although we skipped this experience, it was part of their daily routine. Upon our arrival, we introduced ourselves to everyone, although except Stefano, no one understood us, considering they only spoke Masai or Swahili. We observed women shaving each other's heads with small blades, a practice carried out for hygienic reasons due to the region's water scarcity. Fortunately, Charlie's Travels arranged clean drinking water for us.
A visit to the Nanginyi Foundation
Stefano took us to the nearby school founded by Mar-Lisa from Urk, Netherlands, called the Nanginyi Foundation. This foundation's main goal is to give Masai children from poor families the opportunity to go to school, giving them a better future perspective. Offering both primary and secondary education and further education significantly improves these children's position in the labor market. In addition, the foundation provides the children with several meals a school day, something they often do not have at home. We spent a day with preschoolers ages 3 to 5, playing, devising gym lessons and having lots of fun. Although the children did not yet speak full English, they could understand basic concepts such as colors, shapes, counting, animals and family. They were fascinated by our skin color, but even more so by our cameras, since they have no mirrors and rarely see themselves. In the Netherlands we had contacted Mar-Lisa and brought extra luggage with children's stuff, which was immediately gratefully used.
Note!
It is definitely worth visiting the foundation's website and contributing by donating school supplies or food, for example. Clearly, this help is badly needed, and Mar-Lisa makes sure it gets to those who need it most. You can find more information here.
Broken jerry cans, bush toilet and a goat's head
After an unforgettable day at school, we returned to Stefano's boma. The boma was surrounded by a fence of branches with spikes, both to keep wild animals out and to keep the goats and cows in. Our assigned cottage was no more than 4 square meters. It had a sleeping area, some kind of storage area and a kitchen consisting of three boulders and some branches. The mattress was nothing more than branches covered with a cowhide. Fortunately, Charlie's Travels provided a mosquito net, the only difference from the other cottages. There was no running water, no electricity, no window - just an air hole the size of a fist. The toilet was "anywhere you want," as was clearly indicated by the children who relieved themselves everywhere.
"There was no running water, no electricity, no window - just an air hole the size of a fist. The toilet was 'anywhere you want,' as was clearly indicated by the children who relieved themselves everywhere."
The days with the Masai we really lived with them. We wore their clothes and jewelry, helped gather goats and played with the children. Some children even went to school and spoke English! Using broken jerry cans as skippy balls and other simple items, they devised creative games. We learned a lot about their traditions and way of life. In the evening, there was a ceremony in which a goat was slaughtered. The Masai really do use everything from the goat. The blood is drunk, the organs are eaten raw and the skin is for the dogs. Even though men and women normally eat separately, Susan was allowed to sit with the men. After the traditional dance, it was time to rest. Despite the lack of comfort, we were able to sleep reasonably well, albeit with some stiffness upon waking. Breakfast consisted of boiled potatoes and tea, while the men roasted the goat's head. We thanked politely and stuck to potatoes.
Adventure and relaxation: a visit to Mto wa Mbu
After our adventure with the Masai, it was time for some more luxurious accommodation, as we had agreed with Charlie's. A tuktuk picked us up and we arrived at a lodge in the village of Mto wa Mbu, located in the middle of Manyara National Park. It felt like a luxury getaway, with a lovely pool and comfortable safari tents in which we slept. It was a special experience to see zebras, wildebeests and baboons all around us, so close and yet in their natural habitat.
The next day we took a canoe trip on the lake where we saw hippos - an amazing experience! Then we explored by mountain bike the village and its surroundings, with rice, tomato and banana plantations. We tasted banana beer, learned about local painting techniques and woodworking, and ended the day with a delicious pizza and refreshing beer at the local pizzeria, before taking another dip in the pool amidst the zebras. It was a perfect mix of adventure and relaxation.
Back to basics: the next homestay at Mama Baraka
After being awash in luxury, we continued our way to a homestay at Mama Baraka. Back to basics again, with three days of no power due to a power cut. But that was no problem, because the very lovely Mama Baraka entertained us in all sorts of ways: we even learned to cook a delicious Tanzanian dish! After a good night's sleep, we filled our stomachs with a delicious breakfast freshly prepared by Mama and showered with a measuring cup and a bucket of water. Not much later, a Jeep drove into Baraka Village to pick us up, accompanied by our chief who had assigned himself the job title "Stomach Engineer. With a super cozy guide and our stomach engineer, we continued our journey toward the Serengeti.
Visit to the Serengeti: African massage and lots of wildlife
Once we drove into the park, we were soon faced with the ultimate African massage: that will be sand-hobble roads for the next few days! Not only were our buttocks caressed by the roads, our eyes received a delightful caress from the sight of gazelles, wildebeests, ostriches, lions, hippos and elephants. Even lions that came to lie down by the Jeep, the beasts didn't care. They are already used to the motor vehicles and know that nothing will happen to them, very different from the situation in Enduimet Conservancy.
Before it was dark we had to have the tents set up at the campsite. Nearby we still saw giraffes, warthogs and in the campground a marabou walked. It was back to basics again, but there was power for the cameras, nice! The food tasted more than fine and we went to bed early. At night we heard roars of lions and hyenas. At sunrise we left on another game drive. Now we also saw jackals, a leopard in the tree and two groups of cheetahs! The latter had obviously eaten something because they still had the blood around their pelvises. Later we saw hyenas eating a buffalo but were chased away by two lions. And very special; we saw a topi give birth to her baby and see it take its first steps, how lucky!
Note!
Good to know is that there are 24-hour permits for the Serengeti. So for this reason, the guide actually wants to be in the park as late as possible so that you have a full day the next day to enjoy all the beauty this famous park has to offer.
The final highlight of our adventure: The Ngorongoro Crater
We spent the next night just outside the Serengeti, at a simple campsite similar to the one earlier. The alarm clock rang early again and we made our way to Ngorongoro Crater. Unlike official national parks, people are allowed to live here. The crater was surprisingly green compared to the dry Serengeti and we drove around for hours, seeing an abundance of wildlife.
After our safari adventure, we were brought back to civilization. As we traveled for hours along the bumpy dirt roads, the realization dawned on us that we were going to miss those "African massages" quite a bit.... Arriving at our last accommodation on mainland Tanzania, we ordered some "bia mbili" (two beers in Swahili) and dove into the pool to refresh ourselves after the dusty safaris. It was a nice change between tents and comforts, just as we had hoped. Thanks for this tip, Charlie's!
Zanzibar: crystal clear waters and a visit to Stone Town
We spent our last week on tropical Zanzibar, a true paradise. We got into a discussion about which was bluer; the water of the pool or the sea - a dilemma we loved to get into, haha. Pajé beach was definitely a highlight, with its white sand and crystal clear waters. Here we had no activities planned yet, so we contacted Charlie's to discuss what to do, especially on days with good wind to go kitesurfing. Although we took some kitesurfing lessons, unfortunately we were unlucky with the wind. But it was still great to try!
We took time to relax and enjoyed a snorkeling tour to Mnemba Island, where we saw dolphins and discovered beautiful coral and colorful fish in the clear waters. Another day we explored Stone Town, the historic part of the capital city of Zanzibar City, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The narrow maze-like streets and unique mix of Arab, African and European influences gave the city a special atmosphere, especially recognizable by the various styles of front doors. A visit to the slave museum made a deep impression on us.
"One day we saw dolphins, beautiful coral and colorful fish in the clear waters. Another day we explored Stone Town: the narrow maze-like streets and unique mix of Arab, African and European influences gave the city a special atmosphere."
For dinner, we followed Charlie's advice and visited Forodhani Gardens, a cozy local food market with numerous stalls where locals also like to eat. From the quay, we could enjoy the spectacle of young people jumping into the water in the most spectacular ways. It was a lively and colorful conclusion to our trip!
The summary: not short, but powerful!
So, that was not a short summary, but a representation of the fantastic trip we took through Tanzania with Charlie's Travels. We are extremely happy that we ended up with this organization and can highly recommend them! All you have to do yourself then is to open yourself up especially to new culture, new people and lots of impressions. Know that cultures around the world are different and that we Dutch have a particularly luxurious existence. We didn't fall in love with Tanzanian cuisine, but Africa and Charlie's Travels will definitely see us again in the future!
Traveling greetings,
Wietze & Susan
