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Travel Story – Travelling with kids

Kenya, a country that was high on our wish list. Not only because it's a beautiful country in so many different aspects: wildlife, savannah, vast natural landscapes, pristine beaches, and so much more. But especially because I was born there and spent my early years.

Charlie's Travels | Travel Story | Travel Story – Travelling with kids

Under African skies

Kenya, a country that had long been at the top of our travel list. Not just because it's a beautiful place with so much to offer – wildlife, savannas, vast natural landscapes, white sandy beaches, and much more. But especially because I was born there and spent my early years there. After 25 years, it was time to return and reconnect with my roots, this time with my own kids. When we shared the news with my in-laws, I could see the sparkle in their eyes. Four years ago, they renamed themselves Bibi and Babu, after the birth of our oldest son, which means grandma and grandpa in Swahili. When we asked if they’d like to join us in Kenya, they quickly said yes! (Curious about how my in-laws experienced Kenya? You can read the travel story here.) But how do you even begin planning such a trip? We knew what we definitely wanted to see, but it wasn't as straightforward as it seemed. We are adventurous travelers, but we have two young children. We aren't fans of typical all-inclusive packages, so we never relied on a travel agency. After some research, we found Charlie's Travels. After seeing a few travel proposals, it quickly seemed like a perfect match. Through video calls and WhatsApp, we started planning a completely personalized travel route through Kenya: adventurous, local, off the beaten track – exactly the way we like it.

Preparations

Our contact at Charlie's Travels was always open to our questions, and we certainly had quite a few! Preparing for this trip was important, especially with the little ones and grandparents coming along. We decided to take the plunge and got our vaccinations sorted. A few weeks before the trip, we received a detailed protocol from Charlie's Travels, which helped us pack efficiently. They also arranged a travel crib and car seats so we could travel safely, considering we would be driving about 2,000 kilometers in total.

Ready for departure!

On December 20th, the adventure finally began. We chose an afternoon flight from Schiphol airport with KLM. The flight went very well, as the kids slept for more than half of the journey. What a luxury! We had downloaded plenty of children's movies on our iPad and brought some books for entertainment. Before we knew it, we landed in Nairobi. Hello, warm temperatures! Our driver Henri was waiting when we walked out of the airport with our luggage and the kids. He had an envelope for us with a SIM card and a welcome card from Charlie's Travels. Off to the hotel for our first night. Kenya, we're totally ready for you!

First stop: Amboseli

Around 10 am, Bibi and Babu landed at the airport, and my husband Jasper went to pick them up. After a quick lunch and a dip in the pool, we were all set to begin our Kenyan adventure together. First stop: Amboseli. We received a warm welcome from a Maasai family at the Kili Spring Camp, where we stayed in huts. A delicious dinner was served, and we were treated to a fire under the starry sky. The next morning, we left around 7 am for our first safari, after a hearty breakfast. A motorbike safari! "Are you guys crazy?" we often heard from home. We started to wonder if this was really kids-proof. But children can handle more than we think. We had everything well-planned with Charlie’s Travels, so we decided to take them along, securely fastened to us in a baby carrier. They loved it, and we did too. Babu couldn’t hold back his tears, which left us all speechless. We saw elephants, zebras, giraffes, buffalo, ostriches, and more.

Dancing with the Masai

We made a stop at a Maasai village where we were warmly welcomed with a fire, dance, and song. The Maasai women quickly invited me and Bibi to join in. They greeted the children with open arms, making us feel at home right away. We were given a tour of the village, allowed to enter a hut (which was tiny!), and learned about their food and way of life. Finn and Sun quickly made themselves at home as they met new playmates. Even though they didn’t speak the same language, the love was mutual. This was an absolute highlight of the safari.

The Asia of Africa

Babu Kenia After the impressive motor safari, Henri, our driver, picked us up again. We were ready for something completely new: the so-called "Asia of Africa," the Taita Hills. A 5-hour drive, but thankfully we had a sturdy jeep that kept us safe the whole journey. The kids quickly fell asleep, and we enjoyed the ever-changing landscape – from the busy city to the savannah and then to the hills. First impression: absolutely breathtaking! Henri drove us up to 1,800 meters, where we stayed at Taita Rocks, a beautiful hotel with stunning views of the hills. We enjoyed a light meal, and then a local guide came to meet us. Charlie’s Travels had arranged Abel for us, an incredibly passionate local guide. He suggested we start with a short hike to his favorite spot. Dozens of local children walked with us, in their slippers, even barefoot, while it was sometimes a challenge for us to walk in our best hiking shoes. The kids were in the carriers and on Abel's shoulders. Suddenly, he said, "Look to the left." There, we saw a rock with the most beautiful view over Taita Hills. Even I didn’t know Africa could be this beautiful… Taita Hills-groepfoto The next morning, Abel picked us up with a motorbike, along with a few locals. Another motor safari, this time with Bibi, Babu, and the kids. A bit more adventurous than in Amboseli, as this route involved uphill and downhill, but what drivers! We never felt unsafe, and Sun even fell asleep each time. We took a tour through the hills, eventually reaching the top where we were greeted by the sweetest woman and her family: Mama Rose.

The best chapattis at Mama Rose's!

What I really appreciated is that Charlie’s Travels took our personal interests into account. For example, I’m very passionate about food, so they suggested we go to Mama Rose’s place to cook locally. It instantly brought back nostalgic feelings because Mama Rose reminded me of my own mother and her traditional cooking. Mama Rose is a strong woman with a wonderful family, and everyone contributes to their farm, where we were invited. Linda, Mama Rose’s daughter-in-law, taught me how to make chapattis while the rest of the group had a tour of their property. We were welcomed so warmly and treated to delicious food (including my very own chapattis, which I’m going to try making at home using Linda’s recipe). The kids got a tour from her grandchildren and quickly disappeared to play together. Even Babu gave the chapattis a try and was surprisingly good at it. After we had fully indulged in the local delicacies, we left on the moto towards the hotel. Abel was an amazing guide, showing us a few more great spots, like the water spring where locals even travel from Mombasa to fetch water. It was a beautiful day filled with love and delicious food. The kids were ready for bed, while we enjoyed a drink together with Bibi and Babu at the local restaurant.

Christmas Eve Among the Lions

On Christmas Eve, we ventured out with Henri and the jeep towards Lumo. It was a complete surprise when we arrived, spotting around twenty elephants and buffalos on the way to our hut. Bibi was so moved by the beautiful landscape that she couldn’t hold back her tears. We were welcomed by Charles, who manages the Lumo Conservancy, and there was immediate laughter when the staff asked Jasper, “Are you Eden Hazard?” The resemblance was in his haircut, but not in his football skills! The vibe was great from the start. In the afternoon, we explored the area with Henri and a ranger. We had never seen so much wildlife up close. The most unforgettable moment came just before sunset when we were about to leave and a lioness suddenly walked right in front of our jeep, searching for food for her cubs. We were all in awe – we had never seen a lion in the wild before, let alone so close! Our journey had already been a success, and we were only just getting started. To top it off, we had the most delicious Christmas Eve dinner in Kenya, prepared by the charming chef, and were treated to a performance under the stars by the chef and the Maasai guard. The next morning, we got up early to witness the sunrise over Lumo. In the distance, we could see Mount Kilimanjaro. A wonderful Christmas breakfast was set up for us under the acacia trees, beautifully arranged on a Maasai blanket. It looked like a dream! We savored a hearty breakfast before heading towards Diani Beach on the East Coast.

Christmas on a Pearl White Beach

On the way to Diani Beach, we saw the landscape change once again, and the temperature started to rise significantly. In Taita Hills, we were sometimes surrounded by clouds, high and dry, while here we could really feel the warmth kicking in. Through friends, we had rented a house by the sea, where we could spend a few days relaxing and enjoying the holidays. Charlie's Travels had suggested we take a day trip to Mombasa for a food tour, and we couldn’t say no to that. Our driver headed towards Nairobi, while we enjoyed a few days by the crystal-clear waters of the Indian Ocean and the pearly white beaches. We also discovered our favorite beach bar during our stay: African Oasis. Travel-Story-Familie-Lieve-Kenia-Diani-Wandeling-800x500-1-795b8597 (1)

Mombasa, a culinary bombshell

On day 9, we left around 11 AM for Mombasa, a city of nearly 1 million residents. Charlie’s Travels arranged a local guide for us: Hawa, a powerhouse who would show us the history and food culture of the city. Together with the kids, Bibi, and Babu, we traveled by car to the ferry towards Mombasa. We were amazed by the sight of the city, unlike any other. So many people on the ferry—market vendors, families, people heading to work—everyone crossing the water on a ferry that arrives every few minutes. Hawa was waiting for us and took us to a local spot for the best pilau. The food went down smoothly, even for the kids. It was wonderful to see how easily they adapted to a new country, different climate, customs, and food. Hawa showed us around the city, its various influences, and took us to the best local spots for samosas, manioc chips, grilled sweet potatoes, falafels, and much more. The highlight of the day was visiting the local market, where we could taste and smell the fresh herbs. Once again, incredibly friendly people welcomed us with open arms. They convinced us to take the juiciest pineapples, avocados, mangoes, and other fruits back to our house. Finn and Sun devoured everything we were offered. To cap it off, we enjoyed the best Arabic coffee and Chai with a view of the sea, after passing under the Elephant Tusks. This aluminum sculpture was created to honor Queen Elizabeth during her visit in 1952 and marks the end of the ivory trade. Finn and Sun quickly charmed the local men and were given a sweet treat with fresh sugarcane juice, a natural lemonade. Tired but content, we made our way back to our house in Diani Beach.

Out of Africa

After such a trip, we were convinced that we had already seen the best. We enjoyed one last swim in the pool when the driver came to pick us up for our departure to Mombasa airport. A domestic flight with the kids wasn’t exactly something we were looking forward to, but with just a 40-minute flight compared to hours of driving, we were happy for the convenience. The flight went smoothly, even more pleasantly than expected. Kenyan Airlines flew us on a small plane to Nairobi, where Henry was waiting for us. The kids recognized him right away and quickly gave him a hug. It was so nice to see him again. Henry drove us to our final destination for three days: Lake Naivasha. After such an incredible trip, we thought we had seen the most beautiful parts of Kenya already, but we were in for another surprise. Charlie’s Travels completely wowed us with Camp Carnelley’s, a lovely campsite on Lake Naivasha, where we could see hippos drifting by and were woken up by monkeys and tropical birds. We would spend New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day here. The kids loved the nature and enjoyed a walk around the lake with Bibi and Babu. The food was unexpectedly delicious, and the menu was incredibly varied. We stayed in huts with all the amenities and a lovely warm shower. The next morning, Henry took us for a walk on Crescent Island. This was when I was overcome with emotion. An island like this I had never seen before. It’s no wonder that the film Out of Africa was shot here and that The Lion King was inspired by this place. It felt unreal. We walked among zebras, giraffes, buffalo, okapis, hyenas, and pelicans. A walk we would never forget. Finn and Sun sang The Circle of Life with us, as we’d watched that movie together 100 times. Now we were seeing it in real life, and the film would never be the same again. On our way back to our hut, we even saw Pumba, the bushpig, pass by, and Finn couldn’t believe his eyes. When we went to take our last photo of 2019 on the pier by the hippos, it suddenly started pouring rain. A real African rain shower—we hadn’t had that yet. The rain made for beautiful pictures, and we quickly sought shelter in the bar. Suddenly, the song Africa by Toto started playing, which was an iconic moment. On New Year’s Eve, we had dinner with Bibi and Babu at Camp Carnelley’s à la carte restaurant, and soon the space was transformed into a dance floor with great music. There were even fireworks and a countdown to the New Year. 2020 couldn’t have started in a more perfect way…

A Dream Come True

And suddenly, our last day had arrived. Tears welled up in my eyes because our adventure was almost over. Henri picked us up after lunch, and after enjoying the sunrise with the hippos, we had a smooth drive to Nairobi, where our last stop awaited: my birthplace. An emotional visit to the place where I spent my early years, where we were warmly welcomed once again. We explored Nairobi with the stroller and baby carrier on New Year's Day, taking a walk through Central Park where a public festival was taking place – a perfect opportunity for us to soak in the local atmosphere. Henri picked us up again, ready for our return flight to Schiphol, with a heavy heart but, above all, a heart full of beautiful and warm memories. The trip of a lifetime. Kenya, asante… And Charlie’s Travels: thank you for making our dream come true. Hakuna Matata. After reading this travel story, are you curious about more adventures from Lieve and her family?

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