Everyone knows the highlights of Kenya, the Masai Mara, safaris, white beaches… But I wanted to see what happens when you do not turn right towards the well known hotspots. Together with a colourful bunch of fellow pioneers I headed west with Charlie’s Travels, to a region where few travellers go and where the adventures do not come neatly packaged.
The start is in Nairobi where Gladys, one of Charlie’s Angels, is already waiting with two sturdy four by fours. Because of my experiences with driving on the left in the past, the group felt it was a good idea for me to take the wheel. The traffic cop uncle was less enthusiastic about that plan, because still in the parking garage we were pulled over for supposedly blocking the lane. Three apologies were enough this time… and off we went. Within five minutes we were right in the kind of traffic that would make even a seasoned Amsterdammer break a sweat, let alone a down to earth guy from Zeeland. After a short pit stop, a missed exit which is actually quite hard here, four zebras, an ostrich and twelve baboons later, we hit the first dirt road. And what a road… very cool.
The next morning we headed back out on the water. We sailed between flooded villages and small islands to a nature park without predators, ideal for me. We saw hippos, ostriches, zebras, giraffes and baboons. And as dessert a fish eagle that snatched a fish from the water right in front of us. Back at the lodge an improvised pool party was organised, not much alcohol, hardly any music, but a view that left you speechless. A sudden storm completed the scene. After another great meal we went to bed satisfied. On to the next adventure.
Our elite sport level is a bit lower than that of the average local. In the afternoon we went on a short walk around the hotel. It turned out to involve some climbing, scrambling and panting, but hey, patience is one of my strong suits. A perfect warm up for tomorrow. The next day a hike to a waterfall was on the programme. The group split in two, the “fast” bunch went off with the son of the Belgian owner via the tough route. The others followed later with one of the staff members. A beautiful hike through tropical forest, views over the valley, a few river crossings and some Blue Monkeys. After the descent we reached the base of the waterfall where we enjoyed a glorious natural shower. For the last stretch we jumped on the back of a few boda bodas motor taxis. A fun way to round off the day. In the evening we enjoyed the sun, the view and the food. And apparently they think I am quite a catch here, judging by the large number of photo requests I got.
After a walk through the park and the local market we had lunch in someone’s backyard. That means local food and not a single tourist in sight. The man of the house told me I looked like Max Verstappen “but a bit more handsome”. If you ever want to start a business in Kenya, I would open an optician in Kakamega. Our contact in Kakamega recommended a visit to the Crying Rock. These are a group of rocks in a beautiful landscape. Why they have that name I do not really know, because it was absolute chaos. As soon as we got out of the car the whole village came out and within five minutes at least fifty people were standing around us. Everyone walked enthusiastically along the narrow paths between the rocks. And apparently the local beauty ideal suits me quite well, judging by the fifteen more photo requests I got here. I felt a bit like Max Verstappen after all.
Our accommodation Isecheno Blue Shouldered Guesthouse was on the edge of the tropical rainforest and is simple but incredibly atmospheric. The food cooked over the fire was fantastic and the sounds around us including the heavy downpours were impressive. The next day was all about the tropical forest. At five o’clock we left for a walk to a hilltop to watch the sun rise here and listen to the forest waking up. After a short loop through the forest and a hearty breakfast we headed back into the woods, this time with more focus on nature itself. A nice walk, although you really cannot compare this to a true jungle. Still, it remains special to see different monkeys, bats and colourful birds from so close by.
At the end of the afternoon we had pottery on the programme. It is well known that in terms of creativity I do not exactly break many pots pun intended but it turned out to be surprisingly fun. I do not think the potter had ever had a group of tourists in his workshop before and he only had one wheel, but his work was beautiful. I found a simple pot a bit boring so I enthusiastically started on a T rex that ended up looking more like a crocodile. What do you mean, not creative. I quickly got completely absorbed in it and it turned into a surprisingly fun and cosy activity.
From the tropical forest we drive to the ferry to Rusinga Island, which according to the schedule leaves at 13:30. All good, until Gladys finds out that the departure time has been changed to 11:00. Our expected arrival time, 11:03. In short, pedal to the metal. Slaloming between the potholes we reach the harbour at 10:58, nice. But of course the ferry has a half hour delay. Welcome to Africa. The crossing is an experience in itself. Forget the ferries in the Netherlands or Tenerife, this is the real thing, full of locals, chickens and vibes. On the first island we meet Rakesh, the enthusiastic contact person, who takes us for a luxurious lunch by the lake. After a few hours of relaxing we board the next ferry to Mfangano Island. And wow, that really is something else, basic, quiet and kind of snug. We jump on the back of random boda bodas and race like a bunch of Hells Angels to our stay. It is a homestay, so you literally sleep in people’s homes. The men in the house of brother one, the women in the house of brother two. You eat with your hands, in the garden, between cows and dogs. A real taste of everyday life here. Very special to experience.
The next morning we made a tour around the island. No spectacular highlights or activities on this trip, but pure local life. We did not see any other tourists and everything here is a bit makeshift, but that is exactly what makes it beautiful. The cave we drove to was honestly not that impressive but the ride itself was great. After saying goodbye to the family we sailed back to Rakesh’s house where we spent the second night. A lovely place by the lake, full of birds and with views over fishing boats. I went out in the canoe with one of those fishermen together with Gladys to watch the sunset on the lake. I got along well with Rakesh and earlier he had suggested going to a local pub. Said and done. We all piled into two cars, ready to hit the African night. We just forgot that it was Tuesday and there was not a soul around. Well, except for a few chickens. In the end we had a few drinks and still managed to hit the dance floor for a bit.
After a short round past among others an owl first time for me, buffalo, hippos, vultures and a couple of dik diks we suddenly stumbled upon two lions. For some in the group it was the first time seeing these animals in the wild, pure euphoria. For me it was a beautiful sight but to be honest, spoiled Ronald has seen more spectacular moments. But then… after a few soft growls from the lioness everything changed. Out of the bushes appeared a young lion, followed by another. And another. And another. In the end we counted eighteen lions slowly walking towards a waterhole to drink. We did not know where to look, it was an absolutely unbelievable scene.
After about twenty minutes we left the pride behind and drove onto the open plain a bit further on to toast with a beer and some snacks. When I picked up my binoculars again after a few sips I saw two lionesses walking calmly along the forest edge less than one hundred metres away. At that moment, with both feet on the ground, you really feel how impressive nature is here. In the evening, while we were sitting around the campfire, we got visits from a few hyenas and jackals. Incredible to see how sharp the guards are in the dark. They seemed to sense perfectly what was happening around us and had no trouble shining their torches right on the visiting animals.
The next morning we left for a walking safari. I do not know if you know the song Fields of Gold by Sting listening tip but it felt as if it were written especially for this moment. We walked through a breathtaking landscape of rolling hills, golden grass and acacia trees. In the spot where we had stood only three minutes earlier we now saw buffalo grazing. In the distance the first elephants appeared and a little later we were literally walking among hundreds of wildebeest. Up close we saw various gazelles, zebras and pumbas. A wonderful walk where we really merged with the surroundings, absolutely epic.
After breakfast we had a few hours of rest in camp. While the rest of the group was sorting their stuff I went for a walk with Amos, a young staff member who had studied tourism and was working his first job three hours from home. Shortly after, James the guard and Johnson from the service joined us. In the shade just outside camp a beautiful and open conversation of an hour and a half unfolded with genuine interest on both sides. For me one of the highlights of this trip. At the end of the conversation the men expressed their appreciation. At first this surprised me a little, until they explained that they rarely had such conversations. They said they often feel a slight distance between tourists and staff. So a small tip if you ever stay in a local safari camp, have a chat with the people behind the scenes. They really appreciate it.
The evening drive and the last morning drive were fine. For me personally we did not see many new things. That is how it goes, it remains nature and you cannot script it. And really I should not complain about twenty lion cubs, a lion stalking a group of zebras and a failed attack by six lions on a giraffe. I know, I am spoiled. During the farewell we saw quite a few tears from Amos. Good to realise that these days had been a unique experience for him as well.
Conclusion, we had to pick up the ponchos in a village about twenty minutes from the stay. Luckily my Belgian peers had drunk less read, nothing than I had and together with Gladys we drove through the dark African landscape to the bags. Sounds like a solid plan. When we arrived the forgetful driver was waiting for us in a rather dodgy spot. Within a second and a half Gladys snatched the bags from his hands and our driver pushed the accelerator to the floor. Mission completed. On the way back we stopped at a pub that looked good. We received a warm welcome and the vibe was immediately right. Everyone was dancing and the highlight was the tribute to the recently deceased former opposition leader. Very special to witness. After a few drinks and a toast to my birthday we drove back to the homestay. In four hours the ride to Nairobi was scheduled.
In the evening a bar crawl by tuk tuk was on the programme, chaos two point zero. The drivers raced through every gap in traffic and hit every bump in the road but it was an amazing experience. The first stop was a cool beer bar with good food, the second a bar with live music. After that most of us were done. Not surprising with an average of four and a half hours of sleep over the past five nights. Around 00:30 we got back to our hotel and said goodbye to Gladys. The trip is over.
The start is in Nairobi where Gladys, one of Charlie’s Angels, is already waiting with two sturdy four by fours. Because of my experiences with driving on the left in the past, the group felt it was a good idea for me to take the wheel. The traffic cop uncle was less enthusiastic about that plan, because still in the parking garage we were pulled over for supposedly blocking the lane. Three apologies were enough this time… and off we went. Within five minutes we were right in the kind of traffic that would make even a seasoned Amsterdammer break a sweat, let alone a down to earth guy from Zeeland. After a short pit stop, a missed exit which is actually quite hard here, four zebras, an ostrich and twelve baboons later, we hit the first dirt road. And what a road… very cool.
Eburru Summit: wet feet, full stomach
After half an hour we arrive at our first accommodation, Earth Camp on the Eburru Summit. What a stunning view over the Rift Valley. From the terrace you look out over a landscape that seems designed by someone who simply could not get enough of the colour green. There was not much time to enjoy it though. Quickly drop the bags and get ready for a walk to the lunch spot, because a thunderstorm was on the way. And that turned out to be true, halfway through the walk the sky opened up. Soaked but cheerful we sat down with a local family who welcomed us as if we were relatives. They served up a feast on the table that radiated grandmotherly love. Luckily the way back was drier and after that we could finally relax in the “lounge”. Dinner and straight to bed, everyone is done.
Lake Baringo: rising water and millipedes
A good night’s sleep works wonders. At 08:00 we were back in the car heading for Lake Baringo, a four hour drive right through the impressive Rift Valley, a valley beside a cliff stretching for kilometres, created by an ancient volcanic eruption. A pretty smooth drive, if I say so myself. Once we arrived at the lake we immediately got a reality check. Climate change here is not an abstract idea but a harsh reality. For various reasons the water level is rising at great speed. Villages are literally disappearing into the lake, houses, trees, electricity poles, everything half under water. A remarkable, almost surreal sight. After a short boat trip we arrived at our stay, Tamalok Lodge, on top of a small island. New, locally run, still half under construction, but what a place. Cosy little houses, beautiful views and finally light again after yesterday, not unimportant. By the time we had settled in and had lunch, it was already three o’clock. We took it easy for the rest of the day, we spotted birds, thousands of millipedes haha and… a scorpion that dropped by during the last drink. Flashback to Ecuador, check.
The next morning we headed back out on the water. We sailed between flooded villages and small islands to a nature park without predators, ideal for me. We saw hippos, ostriches, zebras, giraffes and baboons. And as dessert a fish eagle that snatched a fish from the water right in front of us. Back at the lodge an improvised pool party was organised, not much alcohol, hardly any music, but a view that left you speechless. A sudden storm completed the scene. After another great meal we went to bed satisfied. On to the next adventure.
Kerio Valley: Home of the Champions (which we are not)
Today it was a relatively short drive of about three hours. After breakfast we got back on the boat around 09:00 to return to the mainland, after which we continued driving through the Rift Valley towards the Kerio Valley. The route took us over a mountain pass with incredible views over both valleys. The further we drove the quieter and more beautiful it became. Africa just keeps on taking your breath away. Our accommodation is a picture, good food, a fantastic view and a remarkable story. It was built by a Belgian pioneer who spent six years on it. Seeing the steep slopes around us I understand why. We are close to Iten, better known as the Home of the Champions. Because of the altitude two thousand four hundred metres and the huge number of local running talents this is the place for endurance athletes. Olympians from all over the world come here to train. My own korfball career ended before it really started, and I do not expect that my stay here will suddenly turn me into a padel champion, but it is still cool to be here.
Our elite sport level is a bit lower than that of the average local. In the afternoon we went on a short walk around the hotel. It turned out to involve some climbing, scrambling and panting, but hey, patience is one of my strong suits. A perfect warm up for tomorrow. The next day a hike to a waterfall was on the programme. The group split in two, the “fast” bunch went off with the son of the Belgian owner via the tough route. The others followed later with one of the staff members. A beautiful hike through tropical forest, views over the valley, a few river crossings and some Blue Monkeys. After the descent we reached the base of the waterfall where we enjoyed a glorious natural shower. For the last stretch we jumped on the back of a few boda bodas motor taxis. A fun way to round off the day. In the evening we enjoyed the sun, the view and the food. And apparently they think I am quite a catch here, judging by the large number of photo requests I got.
Kakamega: Max Verstappen, pottery and tropical forests
Well before the breakfast deadline of 07:00 I am, yes really, standing on top of the cliff to watch the sunrise over the Kerio Valley. No world wonder, but a fine start to the day. Today is a travel day. After the bustle around Eldoret it quickly becomes quieter and in about four hours we putter along to Kakamega. We start with a city tour on boda bodas, African motorbikes that zoom around everywhere here. The great thing about this trip is that the locations and activities are still quite unpolished. Instead of having scooters and drivers arranged beforehand, the first ten guys that happen to ride past are pulled off the road to do our tour. Well, it works. The tour was actually quite fun. We noticed, for example, that directly opposite the hospital about ten entrepreneurs in corrugated iron shacks are selling their handmade coffins. Confidence in medical care here is apparently very strong…After a walk through the park and the local market we had lunch in someone’s backyard. That means local food and not a single tourist in sight. The man of the house told me I looked like Max Verstappen “but a bit more handsome”. If you ever want to start a business in Kenya, I would open an optician in Kakamega. Our contact in Kakamega recommended a visit to the Crying Rock. These are a group of rocks in a beautiful landscape. Why they have that name I do not really know, because it was absolute chaos. As soon as we got out of the car the whole village came out and within five minutes at least fifty people were standing around us. Everyone walked enthusiastically along the narrow paths between the rocks. And apparently the local beauty ideal suits me quite well, judging by the fifteen more photo requests I got here. I felt a bit like Max Verstappen after all.
Our accommodation Isecheno Blue Shouldered Guesthouse was on the edge of the tropical rainforest and is simple but incredibly atmospheric. The food cooked over the fire was fantastic and the sounds around us including the heavy downpours were impressive. The next day was all about the tropical forest. At five o’clock we left for a walk to a hilltop to watch the sun rise here and listen to the forest waking up. After a short loop through the forest and a hearty breakfast we headed back into the woods, this time with more focus on nature itself. A nice walk, although you really cannot compare this to a true jungle. Still, it remains special to see different monkeys, bats and colourful birds from so close by.
At the end of the afternoon we had pottery on the programme. It is well known that in terms of creativity I do not exactly break many pots pun intended but it turned out to be surprisingly fun. I do not think the potter had ever had a group of tourists in his workshop before and he only had one wheel, but his work was beautiful. I found a simple pot a bit boring so I enthusiastically started on a T rex that ended up looking more like a crocodile. What do you mean, not creative. I quickly got completely absorbed in it and it turned into a surprisingly fun and cosy activity.
Mfangano & Rusinga Island: island hopping without beach chairs
Island hopping… for some a dream, for me more of a nightmare. The idea of lying on a beach chair for two days straight… sigh. Forget for a moment that we are in the middle of Africa, islands yes, beaches not so much. And with bilharzia in the water of Lake Victoria the second largest lake in the world swimming is not exactly recommended either. I have seen this lake before, but then from the Uganda side. Funny to sleep now only a three hour drive away from our first stay in 2022.From the tropical forest we drive to the ferry to Rusinga Island, which according to the schedule leaves at 13:30. All good, until Gladys finds out that the departure time has been changed to 11:00. Our expected arrival time, 11:03. In short, pedal to the metal. Slaloming between the potholes we reach the harbour at 10:58, nice. But of course the ferry has a half hour delay. Welcome to Africa. The crossing is an experience in itself. Forget the ferries in the Netherlands or Tenerife, this is the real thing, full of locals, chickens and vibes. On the first island we meet Rakesh, the enthusiastic contact person, who takes us for a luxurious lunch by the lake. After a few hours of relaxing we board the next ferry to Mfangano Island. And wow, that really is something else, basic, quiet and kind of snug. We jump on the back of random boda bodas and race like a bunch of Hells Angels to our stay. It is a homestay, so you literally sleep in people’s homes. The men in the house of brother one, the women in the house of brother two. You eat with your hands, in the garden, between cows and dogs. A real taste of everyday life here. Very special to experience.
The next morning we made a tour around the island. No spectacular highlights or activities on this trip, but pure local life. We did not see any other tourists and everything here is a bit makeshift, but that is exactly what makes it beautiful. The cave we drove to was honestly not that impressive but the ride itself was great. After saying goodbye to the family we sailed back to Rakesh’s house where we spent the second night. A lovely place by the lake, full of birds and with views over fishing boats. I went out in the canoe with one of those fishermen together with Gladys to watch the sunset on the lake. I got along well with Rakesh and earlier he had suggested going to a local pub. Said and done. We all piled into two cars, ready to hit the African night. We just forgot that it was Tuesday and there was not a soul around. Well, except for a few chickens. In the end we had a few drinks and still managed to hit the dance floor for a bit.
Naibosho Conservancy: Camping in lion hevel
Safari land incoming. We left early and after a long drive we arrived at the gate of this conservancy in the middle of the afternoon. After transferring to the open Land Cruisers we already spotted the first animals along the way. The camp turned out to be fantastic, simple tents in the middle of nature, but with good food and a real bush feeling. After lunch we immediately headed out for an evening drive.After a short round past among others an owl first time for me, buffalo, hippos, vultures and a couple of dik diks we suddenly stumbled upon two lions. For some in the group it was the first time seeing these animals in the wild, pure euphoria. For me it was a beautiful sight but to be honest, spoiled Ronald has seen more spectacular moments. But then… after a few soft growls from the lioness everything changed. Out of the bushes appeared a young lion, followed by another. And another. And another. In the end we counted eighteen lions slowly walking towards a waterhole to drink. We did not know where to look, it was an absolutely unbelievable scene.
After about twenty minutes we left the pride behind and drove onto the open plain a bit further on to toast with a beer and some snacks. When I picked up my binoculars again after a few sips I saw two lionesses walking calmly along the forest edge less than one hundred metres away. At that moment, with both feet on the ground, you really feel how impressive nature is here. In the evening, while we were sitting around the campfire, we got visits from a few hyenas and jackals. Incredible to see how sharp the guards are in the dark. They seemed to sense perfectly what was happening around us and had no trouble shining their torches right on the visiting animals.
The next morning we left for a walking safari. I do not know if you know the song Fields of Gold by Sting listening tip but it felt as if it were written especially for this moment. We walked through a breathtaking landscape of rolling hills, golden grass and acacia trees. In the spot where we had stood only three minutes earlier we now saw buffalo grazing. In the distance the first elephants appeared and a little later we were literally walking among hundreds of wildebeest. Up close we saw various gazelles, zebras and pumbas. A wonderful walk where we really merged with the surroundings, absolutely epic.
After breakfast we had a few hours of rest in camp. While the rest of the group was sorting their stuff I went for a walk with Amos, a young staff member who had studied tourism and was working his first job three hours from home. Shortly after, James the guard and Johnson from the service joined us. In the shade just outside camp a beautiful and open conversation of an hour and a half unfolded with genuine interest on both sides. For me one of the highlights of this trip. At the end of the conversation the men expressed their appreciation. At first this surprised me a little, until they explained that they rarely had such conversations. They said they often feel a slight distance between tourists and staff. So a small tip if you ever stay in a local safari camp, have a chat with the people behind the scenes. They really appreciate it.
The evening drive and the last morning drive were fine. For me personally we did not see many new things. That is how it goes, it remains nature and you cannot script it. And really I should not complain about twenty lion cubs, a lion stalking a group of zebras and a failed attack by six lions on a giraffe. I know, I am spoiled. During the farewell we saw quite a few tears from Amos. Good to realise that these days had been a unique experience for him as well.
Narok: Homestay, ponchos and an unexpected pub
On the way to our next destination we did another loop through the park. We had to check out a new more luxurious camp that Charlie’s Travels might want to offer. The view over the plains is magnificent, the day before a leopard had slept in camp and a crocodile had caught an impala there. For now a stay at this camp remains a dream for me unless Gaston from the postcode lottery decides to visit me. After buying some souvenirs we drove another hour to Narok where we stayed in another homestay. On arrival it turned out to be less basic than expected, the huts were in great shape and the bar was very cosy. The only planned activity of the day was slaughtering a goat which would be our dinner. I watched for a bit but to be honest… I would not be able to do it. Every part of the animal was used but let us say the taste was up for debate… Around 23:00 we found out that some of our ponchos, Masai ponchos we had bought, had not been delivered to the homestay as agreed. Apparently there had been a “forgetful” driver who had taken the packages home. With fifty six point six million people in Kenya the souvenir shop had picked exactly the wrong one again…Conclusion, we had to pick up the ponchos in a village about twenty minutes from the stay. Luckily my Belgian peers had drunk less read, nothing than I had and together with Gladys we drove through the dark African landscape to the bags. Sounds like a solid plan. When we arrived the forgetful driver was waiting for us in a rather dodgy spot. Within a second and a half Gladys snatched the bags from his hands and our driver pushed the accelerator to the floor. Mission completed. On the way back we stopped at a pub that looked good. We received a warm welcome and the vibe was immediately right. Everyone was dancing and the highlight was the tribute to the recently deceased former opposition leader. Very special to witness. After a few drinks and a toast to my birthday we drove back to the homestay. In four hours the ride to Nairobi was scheduled.
Nairobi: chaos, souvenirs and tuktuk’s
We left our accommodation very early because Gladys had to attend her daughter’s graduation. Our car was decorated with balloons and flags because… birthday. Sweet, I tried to react enthusiastically while actually nursing a bit of a hangover after only three hours of sleep. Well, the end of the trip was in sight. In Nairobi we briefly visited Gladys’s apartment and returned the cars, now richer by 218 scratches thanks to the adventurous ride to Earth Camp. We did not get the deposit back but it was worth the adventure. In the afternoon we did a short drive through the city, viewpoint, souvenir market… and chaos. Ten kilometres took fifty minutes because of the weekend traffic and haggling on the market is clearly not my strong point. For twelve euros I took home a magnet. Well done. Let us say I helped the local community.In the evening a bar crawl by tuk tuk was on the programme, chaos two point zero. The drivers raced through every gap in traffic and hit every bump in the road but it was an amazing experience. The first stop was a cool beer bar with good food, the second a bar with live music. After that most of us were done. Not surprising with an average of four and a half hours of sleep over the past five nights. Around 00:30 we got back to our hotel and said goodbye to Gladys. The trip is over.
