Lamu is an oasis of peace in a turbulent region, close to Somalia. In 2011, Kenyan military units joined Amisom, the African Union's military mission against Al Shabaab in Somalia. Since then, Kenya has been the target of several attacks by the Somali terror group, including in Lamu County, where nearly a hundred people died in 2014 from attacks on two villages. It is still not very safe in the region, and violence occasionally rears its ugly head. For this reason, the Dutch Ministry of Foreign Affairs has issued a negative travel advisory for Lamu County. Don't worry though, the island itself is completely safe. As tourism is the primary source of income, you'll be warmly welcomed. The population is predominantly Muslim, so a little respect goes a long way (don't walk around in hotpants or a mini-skirt and you'll be safe).
Due to the unrest on the mainland, it’s not advisable to take the bus. A small propeller plane will take you from Nairobi to Lamu in just over an hour. The flight itself is quite the experience, and since you fly low, you might even spot an elephant! A boat will take you from the airport to the island, where a welcoming committee of enthusiastic beach boys awaits, eager to sell you a dhow safari. The "karibu!" (welcome) from all directions might be a bit overwhelming, but if you smile or chat briefly, they'll eventually leave you alone. The advantage of Lamu being a small place is that the boys will recognise you the next day, either coming over to chat or leaving you in peace. Another benefit of this quaint village life is the strong social control, making the chances of anything happening here very small. The military also keeps an eye on things. So, don’t be surprised if a military helicopter suddenly appears on the horizon or if a few men with large rifles parade along the beach. It's not the most cheerful sight, but oddly enough, it feels very safe!
